Without a wink to the City of Joy and last World Cup for the yellow ambassador taxis

By K.R. Nayar
From Eden Gardens

Kolkata. There was a time when Eden Gardens, where India take on West Indies on March 1 in the ICC T20 World Cup, was the stadium with the largest seating capacity in India. Nearly 100,000 people used to watch the action. Today, Ahmedabad’s Narendra Modi Stadium is the largest. But my first experience of reporting while sitting amidst 100,000 spectators was at the Eden Gardens. After renovation, this stadium can accommodate only around 70,000, but the aura and history of this ground makes it special. It was established way back in 1864.

Last World Cup for yellow Ambassador taxi. Photo by K.R. Nayar 

To Kolkata without a wink of sleep

Leaving for Kolkata from Chennai within a few hours after the India-Zimbabwe match and taking the 4:45 am flight resulted in a sleepless night. Since it was a red-eye flight, I hardly expected any journalist to be on this flight. To my surprise,  India’s ex-captain-turned-commentator, Ravi Shastri was there. To see the man who ignites excitement at every toss with his distinctive style, and his commentary during the match, present at such early hours speaks volumes about his dedication. Sunil Gavaskar too does the same, hopping from one venue to another irrespective of the time of the day. Their dedication to commentary and the amount of hard work they put in to remain among India’s best commentators are as sincere as they were during their playing days.

Huge image of Vinoo Mankad and Pankaj Roy record breaking moment at the Eden Gardens entrance. Photo by K.R. Nayar

A city full of stories

It’s a joy to be in Kolkata a day before the pre-match press conference. Travelling around the city, one gets a better understanding of why this city is called the City of Joy. Every lane, every street, and every pavement has a story. Who can forget the award-winning movie ‘36 Chowringhee Lane’ directed by Aparna Sen, based on post-colonial Calcutta, as this city was known then. Though Team India had not yet arrived, it was a great feeling to just go and admire the stadium from outside. At the entrance is a huge image of Vinoo Mankad and Pankaj Roy walking back after setting a world-record first-wicket partnership of 413 in the fifth and final Test against New Zealand in 1956 at Chennai. Roy was born in Kolkata.

Goodbye soon to yellow Ambassador taxi. Photo by K.R. Nayar 

Last World Cup for yellow Ambassador taxis

Cricket in Kolkata evokes a lot of nostalgia. Unlike today, where air-conditioned cabs take us to our destination in cool comfort, there was a time when the iconic yellow Ambassador taxis were the only cabs available in the city. On match days, these yellow Ambassador taxis race towards Eden Gardens ferrying fans from across the city. Introduced in the early 60s, this must be the only city where these taxis still operate. It is understood that they are being phased out and are expected to disappear soon. So in all probability, this will be the last World Cup where cricket fans can arrive in these taxis.

Close shave for a customer near the Eden Gardens. Photo by K.R. Nayar  

Snack and shave on the pavement

Despite being a metropolitan city, it is not uncommon to see barbers stationed on roads very close to the stadium and providing shaves to customers on the pavement. These pavements are also lined with snack and tea shops. The tea cups you see here are very small, and some of them are made of clay. All of them do roaring business, be it on a match day or not.

Tea cups made of clay at a snack shop on the Eden Gardens pavement. Photo by K.R. Nayar   

Where everyone is an analyst

Very often one witnesses heated debates over sports and politics at these tea stalls. So when there is a cricket match, it is not surprising to see most fans turning into analysts. And then passion erupts. Cricket at Eden Gardens is not just about winning. 

The beautifully illuminated Eden Gardens. Photo by K.R. Nayar 

It is an experience for players and fans. Cricket magnifies the joy in the City of Joy. And with the stadium illuminated in World Cup colours, it seems to have lit up the soul of Kolkata. 


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